Charcoal chicken has a bad name in Madrid because of tray-roasted supermarket chicken: the one in the plastic bag, the one for rushed Sundays. They have nothing in common. One is cooked in an electric oven, turning for hours; the other is cooked over embers and forgives nothing.
What the charcoal changes
- The skin. Over charcoal it comes out thin and crisp rather than leathery. It is the first sign, and you can see it before you taste anything.
- The smoke gets into the meat instead of sitting on the surface. That is why the breast of a charcoal chicken tastes of something, when on an ordinary roast it is the boring piece.
- The window is short. Five minutes too long and it dries out. Which is why places that do it well cook it to order or in batches, never stockpiled.
How to order it
Three things help: order it early if there are several of you, because the grill sets the pace; do not pair it with another heavy dish, since it eats better with just potato or vegetables; and eat it with your hands without apologising, which is how it is meant to be eaten.
It is one of the few dishes that works equally well at a working lunch, at a table with children and at a Saturday dinner. Which is why it never leaves the menu.
Charcoal, oven and rotisserie: three different things
- Charcoal. Dry, uneven heat and smoke that gets into the meat. That is what gives thin skin and flavour.
- Electric oven. Even and convenient, but the skin stays soft and the flavour sits on the surface.
- Rotisserie. The takeaway kind: the bird turns for hours and cooks in its own fat. Juicy, but no smoke.
All three can be good. What they are not is the same thing, and the menu should say which one it is.
What to serve alongside
Potato, grilled vegetables or a sharp salad. Nothing else. The usual mistake is pairing it with another heavy dish and appreciating neither. If the table is long, open with something to share and keep the chicken as the centre.
Frequently asked
How do I know it is really charcoal?
By the skin and the smoke. Charcoal skin is thin and brittle, darker in some places than others. An evenly golden skin means an oven.
Where to eat it near the Bernabéu
At La Reinosa charcoal chicken is a fixture on the menu and rotates through the set lunch. We are at Avenida General Perón 13, 28020 Madrid, five minutes from the stadium.
Book a table or call +34 916 671 967.
